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Stories from the lake

Lake timeline

Two thousand years of the lake in order of date: from the Roman road along the western shore to the first steamboat, from the fall of the Isola Comacina to the Olginate dam. Each date leads to the story that tells it and to the place where it happened.

Dates
82
Stories
27
Periods
6
Como harbour with the jetty and moored boats, the cathedral dome on the right and the Brunate hill behind the town.
Photochrom Print Collection · Public domain

29dates

Antiquity

To the 5th century · 1 date

  1. 5th century

    A baptistery on the Isola Comacina

    A hall for baptism, decorated with mosaics and frescoes, stands on the island. Its remains came to light in the twentieth-century excavations around the small church of San Giovanni.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The Comacine masters

Middle Ages

6th century to 1449 · 5 dates

  1. Sant'Eufemia on the Isola Comacina

    Bishop Litigerius founds the canonry of Sant'Eufemia on the island, a basilica with a nave and two aisles, more than forty metres long. The walled island is the centre of the pieve, the parish district that gathers the churches of the western shore between the Camoggia valley and the Perlana stream.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The fall of the Isola Comacina

  2. The first lands of the abbey of San Benedetto

    Rainaldus, Bishop of Como, climbs into the Val Perlana to settle a quarrel between the men of Isola and those of Lenno over the church of San Benedetto. He obtains a gift of land and grazing rights: it is the oldest document of the abbey.

    Place: San Benedetto in Val PerlanaStory: The monks' lake

    San Benedetto's facade and bell tower, among the meadows and woods of the Val Perlana.
  3. 1118–1127

    The Ten Years' War between Como and Milan

    The Isola Comacina and the lake's parish districts side with Milan against Como, and the lake becomes a battlefield. In 1124 the people of Como occupy and burn the island, but Milan wins the war: in August 1127 Como is taken and has to accept the demolition of the town, its churches excepted.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The fall of the Isola Comacina

  4. The Cistercians at Acquafredda

    Azzo, known as Pellegrino, gives the Cistercians of Morimondo land above Lenno for a monastery to keep the relics of Saints Agrippinus and Domenica, brought from the Isola Comacina. The name, ‘cold water', comes from a nearby spring; the church of Santa Maria dell'Uliveto is consecrated in 1193.

    Place: Acquafredda Abbey, LennoStory: The monks' lake

    The white bell tower and yellow church of the abbey on the hillside, among cypresses, with the lake and mountains behind.
  5. Como razes the Isola Comacina

    Strong again with Frederick Barbarossa on its side, Como destroys the island down to its foundations and scatters its stones in the lake so that it cannot be rebuilt. The islanders flee to Varenna, where the quarter that takes them in is called Insula nova, the new island; in 1175 a decree of Barbarossa confirms the ban on rebuilding.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The fall of the Isola Comacina

    Ruins on the Isola Comacina on a hazy summer day: in the foreground low walls of stacked flat stones, slabs and stones scattered on the ground among the grass; on the right a tree with a leaning trunk and a slope of dry grass, on the left trees and bushes; beyond, the pale blue lake and the steep wooded mountain of the opposite shore, with a village strung along the water at its foot, and in the distance another peak in the haze.

Renaissance and foreign rule

1450–1699 · 2 dates

  1. c. 1490

    Leonardo takes notes on the lake

    On a sheet of the Codex Atlanticus, Leonardo da Vinci lists the lake's valleys, rivers, waterfalls and mines, and advises making these trips in May. Of the Fiumelatte, which he calls Fiumelaccio, he writes that it falls sheer into the lake with an immense din and roar.

    Place: FiumelatteStory: Leonardo on Lake Como

    The Fiumelatte among the houses of the hamlet of Varenna that bears its name: the water, white with foam, drops in steps between moss-covered boulders, passes under a footbridge with a railing and, higher up, under a stone arch bridge; on either side plastered walls, an outside stair with a handrail, a wisteria in flower on a yellow house with green shutters and, on a pink house, a yellow sign reading “Fiumelatte”.
  2. The convent at Varenna becomes a house

    Carlo Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, suppresses the Cistercian convent at Varenna, where too few nuns remain. In 1569 Paolo Mornico buys it and makes it a house: this is the origin of Villa Monastero.

    Place: Villa MonasteroStory: The monks' lake

    Villa Monastero from the balustrade over the lake, among palms and cypresses, the point of Varenna beyond.

Eighteenth century

1700–1799 · 1 date

  1. Villa del Balbianello on the Lavedo point

    Villa del Balbianello is built on the remains of a Franciscan convent at the tip of the Dosso di Lavedo. As the Milanese aristocracy takes to summering on the lake, the shore fills with residences that face the water, because guests arrive by boat.

    Place: Villa del BalbianelloStory: The villas and the microclimate

    The lawn running down to the lake below the loggia, with its pollarded plane trees, the gravel path and a few visitors.

Nineteenth century

1800–1899 · 11 dates

  1. 1808–1810

    Villa Melzi at Bellagio

    Francesco Melzi d'Eril, vice-president of Napoleon's Italian Republic, has a neoclassical villa built at Bellagio, with an English-style park that runs level along the water for hundreds of metres.

    Place: Villa Melzi GardensStory: The villas and the microclimate

    The park of Villa Melzi at Bellagio from the water, below the mountain.
  2. A hotel at Villa Cipressi

    The Venini family opens a hotel at Villa Cipressi, in Varenna, and runs it until 1864. In the same years, around 1825, Abbondio Genazzini's inn on the shore at Bellagio becomes a proper hotel.

    Place: Villa Cipressi GardensStory: The century of the grand hotels

    Villa Cipressi at Varenna from the water, its cypresses stepping down to the lake.
  3. Liszt at Bellagio

    Franz Liszt arrives with Marie d'Agoult and stays at the Genazzini hotel. On the lake he writes the twelve Grandes études for piano; on Christmas Eve, at the Albergo dell'Angelo in Como, his daughter Cosima is born, who will marry Wagner.

    Place: Palazzo GenazziniStory: The musicians' lake

    The white marble group of Dante and Beatrice: Dante, crowned with laurel, holds her hand; Beatrice, standing on a globe among clouds, raises her arm upwards. Below, the arcaded pedestal with carved verses, in front of a dark hedge with rhododendron flowers.
  4. The lake in ‘The Charterhouse of Parma'

    Stendhal's novel is published. Fabrice del Dongo grows up in the family castle at Grianta, on the western shore opposite Bellagio; the second chapter shows Villa Melzi and the headland that divides the two branches, the voluptuous branch of Como and the stern branch of Lecco.

    Place: GrianteStory: The writers' lake

  5. The lake in two lithographs from daguerreotypes

    A year after the daguerreotype was presented in Paris, the lake is already among the subjects of the first photographers. Two lithographs copied from daguerreotypes show Bellagio from the lake, signed Falkeisen, and Villa Pliniana, signed Louis Cherbuin.

    Place: BellagioStory: The lake's first photographers

    An 1840 lithograph made from a daguerreotype: Bellagio seen from the lake, with houses on the shore, the bell tower and a rowing boat in the foreground.
  6. Flaubert at Villa Sommariva

    Gustave Flaubert visits the villa at Tremezzo that will later be called Carlotta. He goes back several times to look at the Cupid and Psyche, which he believes to be by Canova, and on his last visit kisses the statue; the group is attributed to Adamo Tadolini, Canova's pupil.

    Place: Villa CarlottaStory: The writers' lake

    The white marble group of Cupid and Psyche seen close up, in a dimly lit room: Cupid, one wing raised high and the other lower, bends over Psyche, holding her head and breast in his hands; she leans back, lifting her arms round his head of thick curls; light from above picks out the arms and shoulders; behind, tall shuttered windows, a patterned glazed window and a bust on a pedestal.
  7. Villa Carlotta gets its name

    Marianne, who had bought the villa at Tremezzo in 1843, gives it to her daughter Charlotte on her marriage to Georg II of Saxe-Meiningen, and the villa takes its name from her. Its slope has acid soil, which is why the garden can grow azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias.

    Place: Villa CarlottaStory: The villas and the microclimate

    The botanical garden at Villa Carlotta, its palms, wisteria and flowering beds.
  8. The publisher Ricordi's villa at Cadenabbia

    Villa Margherita is built at Cadenabbia for the music publisher Ricordi, reportedly with the proceeds of Il trovatore. Giuseppe Verdi is often a guest, and Amilcare Ponchielli starts work there on I Lituani, staged at La Scala in 1874.

    Place: Villa Margherita Ricordi, CadenabbiaStory: The musicians' lake

    The yellow villa seen from the road: green shutters, the semicircular hall with its balcony, the name Margherita and the clock between two statues at the top, above the lawn and the balustrade.
  9. The little railway from Menaggio to Porlezza

    The narrow-gauge railway linking Lake Como with Lake Lugano is inaugurated on 8 October and opened to the public on 17 November. To climb above Menaggio the train reverses in a manoeuvre called the regresso; the service ends in 1939.

    Place: MenaggioStory: When the railway reached the lake

    Menaggio seen from the Hôtel Victoria, as the printed caption says: in the foreground the tracks of the railway to Porlezza, then the village and the lake at sunset.
  10. c. 1895

    The lake printed in colour

    A Zurich firm prints views of the lake by the photochrom process: Bellagio, the Tremezzina, Cadenabbia, Menaggio and Como. Each print starts from a black-and-white negative, and the colours noted by the photographer are transferred to a series of lithographic stones, one for each tint.

    Place: BellagioStory: The lake in colour, around 1895

    Bellagio from above in a late nineteenth-century photochrom: the lakefront with its tree-lined walks, the bell tower and the snowy Alps behind.
  11. 1896–1897

    Cinema comes to the lake

    The Lumière brothers, touring Italy to make the cinematograph known, film scenes of a boat race at Bellagio. The footage is kept at the Cineteca Nazionale in Rome.

    Place: BellagioStory: The lake on film

Twentieth century

1900–1999 · 9 dates

  1. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo

    Enea Gandola opens a long Art Nouveau hotel on the shore at Tremezzo, with lifts and electric signs from the start.

    Place: Grand Hotel TremezzoStory: The century of the grand hotels

  2. Excavations uncover Sant'Eufemia

    Ugo Monneret de Villard begins digging on the Isola Comacina and finds, under five metres of rubble and earth, the basilica of Sant'Eufemia, until then unknown. Its destruction in 1169 had spared it the alterations of the centuries that followed.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The fall of the Isola Comacina

    The apse of the church of Santi Faustino e Giovita on the Isola Comacina, on a spring day: a curved wall of irregular pale stones, a few blocks jutting out, under a modern wooden roof that shelters it; on the left a wall with small blind arches and, at the foot of the apse, a small rectangular window; in the foreground a large agave with grey-green leaves, round it a sloping meadow of grass and rocks and trees in new leaf against the blue sky.
  3. The fortified line on the northern border

    Warned of a possible German invasion of Switzerland, Luigi Cadorna orders a fortified line from the Ossola valleys to the passes of the Orobie. In the province of Como it runs from Monte Bisbino to the Crocetta above Menaggio, with trenches, tunnels and gun positions that will never see a battle.

    Place: La CrocettaStory: The Cadorna Line on the Lario

    The Alpini chapel at the Crocetta, with the lake and the mountains behind.
  4. The car ferry

    The first autochiatta, the car ferry, goes into service. Since then Bellagio, Varenna, Menaggio and Cadenabbia have been linked by the centre-lake crossings, the only way to take a car to the other shore without driving round the branch.

    Place: VarennaStory: Two hundred years under steam

    The car ferry Lario under way, cars and motorbikes on the loading deck and passengers on the stairs.
  5. Enrico Fermi at Villa Monastero

    At Villa Monastero in Varenna, Enrico Fermi gives his last course. The villa, which grew out of a Cistercian convent, hosts physics schools, and its conference hall bears his name.

    Place: Villa MonasteroStory: The villas and the microclimate

    The lakeside loggia, flowers on the sill and the opposite shore beyond.
  6. Adenauer comes to Cadenabbia

    On the advice of his foreign minister, Heinrich von Brentano di Tremezzo, the German chancellor Konrad Adenauer spends a holiday at Cadenabbia, and Griante makes him an honorary citizen. He will spend eighteen holidays there until 1966, from 1959 at Villa La Collina.

    Place: GrianteStory: The chancellor on the lake

    Konrad Adenauer reading the newspaper in a wicker chair on the terrace of Villa La Collina at Cadenabbia, August 1961.
  7. The Élysée Treaty is saved at Cadenabbia

    At Cadenabbia, where Adenauer spends his holidays at Villa La Collina, the leaders of the German governing coalition meet, because ratification of the treaty with France is in danger of failing in the Bundestag. The chancellor agrees to add a preamble on the Atlantic alliance, and the treaty is saved.

    Place: Villa La Collina, CadenabbiaStory: The chancellor on the lake

    The yellow villa among the park's trees: two storeys of arches, the upper loggia with its iron railing, the gravel drive and a clipped hedge in front.
  8. Villa del Balbianello passes to the FAI

    The explorer Guido Monzino leaves the villa on the Lavedo point to the FAI, Italy's national trust, with his collections and the relics of his Everest and North Pole expeditions. The Balbianello is also a film location: ‘A Month by the Lake', ‘Star Wars: Episode II' and ‘Casino Royale' were among the films shot there.

    Place: Villa del BalbianelloStory: The lake on film

    The Lavedo point from above: the villa and the loggia at its tip, the terraced gardens and the blue water around them, two motorboats passing.
  9. Where the Fiumelatte comes from

    A dye poured into the caves of the Moncodeno, on the north side of the Grignone, shows that the Fiumelatte is the outlet of a karst system inside the mountain. It usually flows from March to October; Leonardo had written that it ran only in August and September.

    Place: FiumelatteStory: Leonardo on Lake Como

    A narrow lane in Fiumelatte, the Varenna hamlet the torrent is named after.