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Stories from the lake

Lake timeline

Two thousand years of the lake in order of date: from the Roman road along the western shore to the first steamboat, from the fall of the Isola Comacina to the Olginate dam. Each date leads to the story that tells it and to the place where it happened.

Dates
82
Stories
27
Periods
6
Como harbour with the jetty and moored boats, the cathedral dome on the right and the Brunate hill behind the town.
Photochrom Print Collection · Public domain

32dates

Antiquity

To the 5th century · 3 dates

  1. AD 61 or 62

    Pliny the Younger is born

    The nephew of Pliny the Elder, who later adopts him, is born at Novum Comum, ancient Como. In his letters he describes the spring that rises and falls several times a day, the one at the Pliniana, and two villas of his on the shore of the Lario, which he calls Tragedy and Comedy.

    Place: ComoStory: The two Plinys of Lake Como

  2. 5th century

    A baptistery on the Isola Comacina

    A hall for baptism, decorated with mosaics and frescoes, stands on the island. Its remains came to light in the twentieth-century excavations around the small church of San Giovanni.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The Comacine masters

  3. 5th or 6th century

    The baptistery of Gravedona

    A baptistery with a mosaic floor and an octagonal basin for baptism by immersion is built at Gravedona. The Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Tiglio, in bands of light and dark stone, later rises over its remains; the baptistery came to light in the excavations of 1953.

    Place: Santa Maria del TiglioStory: The Comacine masters

    The banded tower of Santa Maria del Tiglio at Gravedona, floodlit at night.

Middle Ages

6th century to 1449 · 9 dates

  1. 607–617

    Agrippinus founds an oratory at Piona

    Agrippinus, Bishop of Como, builds an oratory dedicated to Saint Justina the martyr on the Olgiasca peninsula and prepares his own tomb there. A stone pillar kept at Piona records it; a small community, probably of hermits, was most likely already living there.

    Place: Piona AbbeyStory: The monks' lake

    The Piona inlet, the bay enclosed by the peninsula, the Alps behind.
  2. 643

    Rothari's Edict names the Comacine masters

    Two chapters of the law of the Lombard king Rothari deal with the magister commacinus and settle who must pay for the damage if a house built by a master collapses. The name most probably means builders and stonecutters from the Como area, but its meaning is not settled.

    Place: ComoStory: The Comacine masters

    The Isola Comacina from above: a tongue of wooded land in the blue lake, with meadows and a white building towards the point and a strip of gravel on the shore; behind, the far shore with houses along the water, and at the bottom roofs and green branches.
  3. Second half of the 8th century

    A monastery on the mountain above Civate

    At the end of the Lombard kingdom a small monastery dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul is founded above Civate; legend credits King Desiderius with it. Between the 10th and the 11th century it becomes the Romanesque building of San Pietro al Monte, which can be reached only on foot.

    Place: Basilica of San Pietro al MonteStory: The monks' lake

    The oratory of San Benedetto at San Pietro al Monte, above Civate: a small stone church with slab roofs and a round apse with a little window, behind a stone wall that closes the terrace; lower down, beyond the bare woods, Lake Annone with villages round it and a road viaduct running past its tip, and in the distance mountains with snow on their summits under a blue sky.
  4. 24 January 835

    Limonta passes to the monastery of Sant'Ambrogio

    By a charter of the Emperor Lothair, Limonta becomes a fief of the Milanese monastery of Sant'Ambrogio, which holds it until 1797. For centuries the oil of this stretch of the Lecco branch burns in the lamps on the tomb of Milan's patron saint.

    Place: Oliveto LarioStory: The olive coast

    Limonta from the lake: on the shore wall a yellow and brick villa with a pagoda-roofed tower, cedars and a copper beech; above, houses climb the slope among silvery olive trees, and higher up the woods cover the mountain.
  5. Sant'Eufemia on the Isola Comacina

    Bishop Litigerius founds the canonry of Sant'Eufemia on the island, a basilica with a nave and two aisles, more than forty metres long. The walled island is the centre of the pieve, the parish district that gathers the churches of the western shore between the Camoggia valley and the Perlana stream.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The fall of the Isola Comacina

  6. The first lands of the abbey of San Benedetto

    Rainaldus, Bishop of Como, climbs into the Val Perlana to settle a quarrel between the men of Isola and those of Lenno over the church of San Benedetto. He obtains a gift of land and grazing rights: it is the oldest document of the abbey.

    Place: San Benedetto in Val PerlanaStory: The monks' lake

    San Benedetto's facade and bell tower, among the meadows and woods of the Val Perlana.
  7. Urban II consecrates Sant'Abbondio

    Outside the walls of Como, along the old Via Regina, the Benedictines have been rebuilding the church of Sant'Abbondio since 1010: a nave and four aisles and twin bell towers beside the apse. Pope Urban II, passing through Como, consecrates it.

    Place: Basilica of Sant'AbbondioStory: The Comacine masters

    An arched window in the pale stone wall of the apse: the frame is carved with dense interlaced bands, two slender columns carry the inner arch, the jambs alternate white and grey blocks and the glass is patterned with circles; above runs a sawtooth band beneath an interlaced frieze.
  8. The Cistercians at Acquafredda

    Azzo, known as Pellegrino, gives the Cistercians of Morimondo land above Lenno for a monastery to keep the relics of Saints Agrippinus and Domenica, brought from the Isola Comacina. The name, ‘cold water', comes from a nearby spring; the church of Santa Maria dell'Uliveto is consecrated in 1193.

    Place: Acquafredda Abbey, LennoStory: The monks' lake

    The white bell tower and yellow church of the abbey on the hillside, among cypresses, with the lake and mountains behind.
  9. 1252–1257

    The cloister of Piona

    Prior Bonaccorso de Canova, from Gravedona, has the abbey's cloister built at his own expense, as two inscriptions record. The capitals, each one different, carry hooked leaves, eagles with spread wings and small heads; the builders' names are unknown.

    Place: Piona AbbeyStory: The Comacine masters

    The Romanesque cloister at Piona abbey, its paired colonnettes around an inner lawn.

Renaissance and foreign rule

1450–1699 · 4 dates

  1. 1457–1486

    The façade of Como Cathedral

    From 1452 the cathedral works use white marble from Musso, which becomes their main material. The façade, begun in 1457, is completed in 1486 with the rose window.

    Place: Como CathedralStory: The stone of the lake

    The Duomo's marble apses and dome under a September sky.
  2. By 1498

    The two Plinys on the cathedral façade

    The brothers Giacomo and Tommaso Rodari complete the two aedicules on either side of the main doorway: Pliny the Elder sits on the left, Pliny the Younger on the right. In 1578, at the height of the Counter-Reformation, the statues survive an attempt to remove them.

    Place: Como CathedralStory: The two Plinys of Lake Como

    The aedicule of Pliny the Elder on the front of Como cathedral, protected by a glass case: the marble statue seated in a niche between two carved columns, a book on his knee; below, two reliefs between small caryatids, a garland held by putti and a stone tablet with a Latin inscription; around it, the grey marble blocks of the façade.
  3. The convent at Varenna becomes a house

    Carlo Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, suppresses the Cistercian convent at Varenna, where too few nuns remain. In 1569 Paolo Mornico buys it and makes it a house: this is the origin of Villa Monastero.

    Place: Villa MonasteroStory: The monks' lake

    Villa Monastero from the balustrade over the lake, among palms and cypresses, the point of Varenna beyond.
  4. 1606–1624

    The sanctuary of the Madonna del Moletto

    The Cistercian monk Roberto Rusca, who came to Limonta in 1605, builds the sanctuary of the Madonna del Moletto on the rock that drops sheer into the lake, so that boatmen on the water and farmers on the paths can see it.

    Place: Madonna del Moletto Sanctuary, Oliveto LarioStory: The olive coast

Eighteenth century

1700–1799 · 1 date

  1. 1711–1753

    The Carloni brothers remake the church at Scaria

    The brothers Diego and Carlo Innocenzo Carloni remake the church of Santa Maria for Scaria, their home village, with stucco and frescoes. They are among the artists of the Val d'Intelvi who work all over Europe: Carlo Innocenzo also paints in Ljubljana Cathedral and in the palaces of Vienna.

    Place: Santa Maria and Museum of Sacred Art, ScariaStory: The Comacine masters

    The nave with walls and vault covered in stucco and frescoes, down to the high altar at the end.

Nineteenth century

1800–1899 · 10 dates

  1. Shelley looks for a house at the Pliniana

    From Milan, Percy Bysshe Shelley writes to his friend Thomas Love Peacock that he has been to Como to look for a house. The landscape he likes best is that of Villa Pliniana, half in ruins, which he and Mary hope to obtain; the negotiations come to nothing.

    Place: Villa Pliniana, TornoStory: The writers' lake

  2. ‘The Betrothed' names the Lucia boats

    Alessandro Manzoni's novel is published for the first time. In it Lucia crosses the lake by night in a working boat with hoops for an awning, and from then on that boat is called a Lucia.

    Place: LeccoStory: The Lucie, the boats with hoops

    Lecco at dusk mirrored in still water, the bell tower of San Nicolò and the cliffs of Monte San Martino.
  3. Bellini at Moltrasio

    The Cantù and Turina families rent Villa Salterio at Moltrasio, where Giuditta Cantù carries on her affair with Vincenzo Bellini. These are the years in which the composer writes La straniera and La sonnambula; a plaque on the villa's façade records it.

    Place: Villa Salterio Erker, MoltrasioStory: The musicians' lake

    The three-storey lilac villa on the road, with grey shutters, the decorated pediment at the top and a plaque on the front; on the left a balustraded terrace, on the right the arch spanning the road.
  4. Liszt at Bellagio

    Franz Liszt arrives with Marie d'Agoult and stays at the Genazzini hotel. On the lake he writes the twelve Grandes études for piano; on Christmas Eve, at the Albergo dell'Angelo in Como, his daughter Cosima is born, who will marry Wagner.

    Place: Palazzo GenazziniStory: The musicians' lake

    The white marble group of Dante and Beatrice: Dante, crowned with laurel, holds her hand; Beatrice, standing on a globe among clouds, raises her arm upwards. Below, the arcaded pedestal with carved verses, in front of a dark hedge with rhododendron flowers.
  5. The lake in ‘The Charterhouse of Parma'

    Stendhal's novel is published. Fabrice del Dongo grows up in the family castle at Grianta, on the western shore opposite Bellagio; the second chapter shows Villa Melzi and the headland that divides the two branches, the voluptuous branch of Como and the stern branch of Lecco.

    Place: GrianteStory: The writers' lake

  6. The lake in two lithographs from daguerreotypes

    A year after the daguerreotype was presented in Paris, the lake is already among the subjects of the first photographers. Two lithographs copied from daguerreotypes show Bellagio from the lake, signed Falkeisen, and Villa Pliniana, signed Louis Cherbuin.

    Place: BellagioStory: The lake's first photographers

    An 1840 lithograph made from a daguerreotype: Bellagio seen from the lake, with houses on the shore, the bell tower and a rowing boat in the foreground.
  7. Flaubert at Villa Sommariva

    Gustave Flaubert visits the villa at Tremezzo that will later be called Carlotta. He goes back several times to look at the Cupid and Psyche, which he believes to be by Canova, and on his last visit kisses the statue; the group is attributed to Adamo Tadolini, Canova's pupil.

    Place: Villa CarlottaStory: The writers' lake

    The white marble group of Cupid and Psyche seen close up, in a dimly lit room: Cupid, one wing raised high and the other lower, bends over Psyche, holding her head and breast in his hands; she leans back, lifting her arms round his head of thick curls; light from above picks out the arms and shoulders; behind, tall shuttered windows, a patterned glazed window and a bust on a pedestal.
  8. The publisher Ricordi's villa at Cadenabbia

    Villa Margherita is built at Cadenabbia for the music publisher Ricordi, reportedly with the proceeds of Il trovatore. Giuseppe Verdi is often a guest, and Amilcare Ponchielli starts work there on I Lituani, staged at La Scala in 1874.

    Place: Villa Margherita Ricordi, CadenabbiaStory: The musicians' lake

    The yellow villa seen from the road: green shutters, the semicircular hall with its balcony, the name Margherita and the clock between two statues at the top, above the lawn and the balustrade.
  9. c. 1895

    The lake printed in colour

    A Zurich firm prints views of the lake by the photochrom process: Bellagio, the Tremezzina, Cadenabbia, Menaggio and Como. Each print starts from a black-and-white negative, and the colours noted by the photographer are transferred to a series of lithographic stones, one for each tint.

    Place: BellagioStory: The lake in colour, around 1895

    Bellagio from above in a late nineteenth-century photochrom: the lakefront with its tree-lined walks, the bell tower and the snowy Alps behind.
  10. 1896–1897

    Cinema comes to the lake

    The Lumière brothers, touring Italy to make the cinematograph known, film scenes of a boat race at Bellagio. The footage is kept at the Cineteca Nazionale in Rome.

    Place: BellagioStory: The lake on film

Twentieth century

1900–1999 · 5 dates

  1. Excavations uncover Sant'Eufemia

    Ugo Monneret de Villard begins digging on the Isola Comacina and finds, under five metres of rubble and earth, the basilica of Sant'Eufemia, until then unknown. Its destruction in 1169 had spared it the alterations of the centuries that followed.

    Place: Isola ComacinaStory: The fall of the Isola Comacina

    The apse of the church of Santi Faustino e Giovita on the Isola Comacina, on a spring day: a curved wall of irregular pale stones, a few blocks jutting out, under a modern wooden roof that shelters it; on the left a wall with small blind arches and, at the foot of the apse, a small rectangular window; in the foreground a large agave with grey-green leaves, round it a sloping meadow of grass and rocks and trees in new leaf against the blue sky.
  2. Hitchcock shoots his first film on the lake

    For ‘The Pleasure Garden', his debut as a director, Alfred Hitchcock sets the heroine's honeymoon on the lake. The Villa d'Este hotel, the Isola Comacina and the Civera bridge at Nesso can all be recognised.

    Place: NessoStory: The lake on film

    The Ponte della Civera at Nesso: a single-arched stone humpback bridge over green water, leading to stone houses with red doors and shutters; a few people are crossing it; on the left, a wall covered in ivy.
  3. The Novocomum, Como's first rationalist building

    Giuseppe Terragni completes the Novocomum, an apartment building with a curved volume on the corner that the people of Como nickname ‘the Ocean Liner'. Between the wars Como becomes one of the centres of Italian rationalism.

    Place: NovocomumStory: Palazzo Terragni, rationalism beside the cathedral

    The Novocomum at the crossroads, its rounded corner and balconies under a blue sky.
  4. Terragni completes the Casa del Fascio

    Fifty metres from the apse of the cathedral, Giuseppe Terragni completes the Como headquarters of the National Fascist Party, designed in 1932: a square of about thirty-three metres a side, faced in white marble, with no cornices or decoration. The building has since taken the name Palazzo Terragni.

    Place: Palazzo Terragni (former Casa del Fascio)Story: Palazzo Terragni, rationalism beside the cathedral

    The front of Giuseppe Terragni's Casa del Fascio in Como, seen square-on from the piazza, with a person in a yellow raincoat.
  5. Monks return to Piona

    After centuries of absentee abbots and private owners, a group of Cistercian monks arrives from Casamari and takes possession of the priory, which the businessman Pietro Rocca has given to their congregation. A community of monks has lived at Piona ever since.

    Place: Piona AbbeyStory: The monks' lake

    The abbey's Romanesque cloister with its paired columns.